Kirsten Sigmund draws inspiration from the colourful life of Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. Photo: Karen Lateo.
The Flying Fajita Sistas. It sounds like a daring culinary circus act, and for Kirsten Sigmund that’s an apt description of her life.
This month, the Illawarra restaurateur opened the third Mexican eatery of her career, Frida’s Cantina in Kiama, in partnership with her sister, Vicky Elliott, and former sister-in-law, Deb Russell. All have required Kirsten to develop a talent for juggling: kids, relationships, illness and mental health. Yet she is revelling in the challenge of their new Kiama venue.
“I had always said I’m never going to open a Mexican restaurant, any restaurant,” admitted Kirsten, who started out as a caterer. “I always said the work was too hard. Now look at me!
“I’m feeling reenergised. I think going into any new space and having that creativity for something new is always a positive thing.”
It was Deb who lured the sisters into the colourful, flavourful world of Mexican food. The Illawarra lawyer and businesswoman was co-owner of Wollongong icon Amigos.
When Deb married their brother, Matt Sigmund, Kirsten started working lunch shifts in Amigos and Vicky, a police officer, dabbled in the kitchen, too.
“And that’s how we have just grown to love Mexican food. We’re comfortable with it – it’s like we’re Mexican,” Kirsten laughed.
Their cartel spread to Sydney in 2008. Deb suggested they open a small Mexican restaurant in the inner city, with Matt also on board. The Glebe Point Road site was christened “Flying Fajita Sistas” in the women’s honour.
“We found an empty terrace house, and just created the space,” recalled Kirsten, who grew up in Albion Park. “The week we signed the lease, I found out I was pregnant.
“I had this ferocious morning sickness and couldn’t stand the smell of corn. And mole sauce still makes my stomach lurch. But it was exciting and fun. I had the support of the family with me, so I never felt this isn’t going to work.”
Work it did, for six solid, busy years. Amid it all, Kirsten gave birth to her first son, Archie, now 16; his brother, Cooper, arrived 16 months later.
The Flying Fajita Sistas: Kirsten with her former sister-in-law, Deb Russell (left), and sister Vicky Elliott. Photo: Karen Lateo.
Then came an offer too good to refuse: a site in Kiama, in the IRT Harbourside building. With Matt’s involvement, the sisters began hatching plans for El Corazon Cocina de Mexico. It opened in September 2013.
“I’d moved back to the Illawarra but was still running the Glebe restaurant. And at the same time, we were building and opening El Corazon. So there was a point where I was running both. With two little kids under three,” Kirsten said.
“I think now, how did I do that? I was travelling four times a week, up and down, almost two hours each way. And trying to run a new place at the same time. I had postnatal depression, but I didn’t figure that out until a lot later on.”
Kirsten was at the point of burnout.
“It was me trying to be in control of so many things and realising I wasn’t coping. Feeling totally overwhelmed, feeling quite disconnected from my children. I remember watching my boys, my babies, laughing and enjoying themselves … I could see the enjoyment they were having, but I wasn’t able to feel it. It was just a blankness, and it was scary.”
In that dark moment, Kirsten sought professional help.
“It was a lesson that made me understand what depression, postnatal depression was. I have seen my psychologist on and off for a good 12 years now. If we go to the gym to do regular maintenance of our physical health, why would we not do that with our mental health?”
The Glebe business was sold, and El Corazon became the family’s focus. Kirsten worked there full-time; Vicky, by now a police detective, and Deb, who owned multiple businesses, spent all their spare hours there and the trio’s children stepped into service roles. It worked like a dream until August 2017, when the family dynamic was altered by divorce. Deb bought her friends out of the business.
Kirsten began a new profession, fitness training, “as far away from hospitality as possible. It was nice and refreshing … I thought I could have disconnected from hospitality forever.”
The cantina has a chilli sauce “library” and, in the old fireplace, a traditional Mexican ofrenda: a tribute to the spirit of Frida Kahlo. Photo: Karen Lateo.
Forever, as it turned out, lasted just five years. “In October 22, Deb called me and said, ‘I’m not sure where you’re at with your life, but I was wondering whether you’d like to come back into El Corazon?’” Both Kirsten and Vicky eventually agreed.
Boosted by their second wind at El Corazon, the trio began scouting sites for a new project. When a boutique became available in Kiama’s historic Collins Street terraces, it seemed like fate: it was once Ritzy Gritz, a Mexican restaurant from the mid-1980s that ran for more than 30 years. They hatched a plan for a Mexican breakfast-and-lunch diner and, with the whole family pitching in on the renovations, opened Frida’s Cantina on 4 June.
“This is almost like going back to the beginning,” Kirsten said. “It’s cute and quaint, and it’s in a terrace house. This feels like Flying Fajita Sistas.”
Frida’s Cantina pops with lush tropicals, reflecting the colour palette of its namesake, Mexican artist Frida Kahlo.
One corner holds a chilli sauce “library” for DIY spice splashes and, in the old fireplace, an ofrenda: a traditional Mexican altar celebrating lost loved ones – in this case, Frida Kahlo.
“We can all see a bit of ourselves in Frida and her life and the things she went through,” Kirsten explained. “No matter what the challenge, she had strength in adversity. I believe we are all resilient.”
This business decision is part of that resilience. With more than a year left on their El Corazon lease, the sisters regard Frida’s Cantina as “futureproofing”. Staff will cycle between the two venues with seasonal demand.
“I feel this is my calling,” Kirsten said. “Like I’m born to be part of the service and hospitality industry. I enjoy watching people enjoy themselves!”
Frida’s Cantina, 40 Collins Street Kiama, is open 7 am to 4 pm Tuesday to Friday, and 8 am to 4 pm Saturday and Sunday. For bookings, visit Frida’s Cantina or call 4257 4731.
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