21 December 2023

Easygoing speakeasy The Black Cockatoo is hard to find but easy to love

| Lucy Ridge
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A bar with round lights, and a sign on a mirror reading Black Cockatoo.

Moody, characterful and with great drinks – what more could you want from a bar? Photo: The Black Cockatoo.

On a stinking hot Friday evening in Wollongong, I was in a bad mood and looking for somewhere cool to rest my aching feet. I found myself wandering past a coffee shop when I noticed something odd – the cafe was definitely closed, but the front door was open and there was a curtain covering the doorway to a back room. I thought I could hear music so, intrigued, I checked the signage. One half read Early Bird, and the other The Black Cockatoo. I cautiously poked my head through the curtain and found myself in a bar.

I had stumbled upon a speakeasy.

Friendly bartender Dan Curtis chatted with me about the bar.

“The original owners used to have a wine bar next door, but they wanted to open a speakeasy because there was nothing like it at the time in Wollongong.”

Bartender shaking a cocktail.

Bartender Dan makes an excellent cocktail. Photo: Jye Talbot.

The Black Cockatoo is everything you want in a bar: a little moody, full of character and serving up excellent drinks. There’s a solid list of classic and house cocktails and on this hot day I know that I want a margarita. Rule number three on the house rules states that the go-to version at Black Cockatoo is Tommy’s Margarita made with Reposado tequila, lime and agave. Poured over ice it is super refreshing and, as the menu correctly asserts, absolutely ‘smashable’.

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Other house rules state “Absolutely no racist, sexist, homophobic, transphobic or generally gronky behaviour/talk of any kind. In short – don’t be a d—head.” Rule number 6 also warns that service may come to a standstill if any Kylie Minogue is played.

This is my kind of bar.

Pink cocktail in a coupe glass with bartender and mural in the background.

The Charlie Chaplin was so good, it might just be my new go-to. Photo: Lucy Ridge.

Dan tells me that it’s a favourite hangout for hospitality shift workers in the CBD. I’m visiting during a quiet period (just before happy hour) but he tells me things are usually buzzing later on.

“If you ask any self-respecting bartender or chef where they come after work, they come here,” Dan says.

“We get busy after dinner and then there’s usually a lull at around 11:30. But we start pumping again at midnight when all the hospos come in.”

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The Black Cockatoo is open until 2 am on Friday and Saturday nights, and there’s a proper range of spirits and delicious craft beers available. And the cafe out the front is open extra early for hospos on the other side of the shift work spectrum. I describe myself as a recovering chef, and Dan offers his (joking) condolences, before giving me an excellent list of some of the best places to try in town.

Crowd of people at a bar.

After midnight the bar is full of hospitality workers. Photo: The Black Cockatoo.

I notice on the menu that if you’re hungry they allow customers to BYO food from their neighbours Pizzeria 50 or Souva King: the King of Kembla Street.

I’m having trouble choosing a second drink and Dan suggests a Charlie Chaplin. Made with sloe gin, apricot brandy and lime, this might just be my new go-to classic cocktail. I sip from the coupe and read a book using the underbar lights.

As I leave the place is starting to fill up with people seeking after-work drinks and attending a few festive gatherings. I step through the curtain into the humidity of the street, but I’m in a fantastic mood.

The Black Cockatoo is open from 5 pm to 12 am on Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday, from 4 pm to 2 am on Friday and from 5 pm to 2 am on Saturday.
Follow The Black Cockatoo on Facebook or Instagram.

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